Seafood Chowder

cooking.nytimes.com

“No one who cooks, cooks alone. Even at her most solitary, a cook in the kitchen is surrounded by generations of cooks past, the advice and menus of cooks present, the wisdom of cookbook writers.” ― Laurie Colwin

This chowder of root-cellar vegetables, clams and fish is one of the easiest and best things to cook for a weekend dinner with family and friends. Use a mixture of butter and the powdered dried seaweed called dulse as the flavored fat in which you sauté the vegetables before deglazing them, and each individual flavor in the resulting stew will pop — from carrot to leek, parsnip to potato, bacon to clam to scallop to fish. The seaweed is a powerful flavor enhancer. You can omit it if you want, but really, you shouldn't.

36 medium-size quahog clams, usually rated “top neck” or “cherrystone,” scrubbed under cold water to remove sand and grit

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ pound thick-cut bacon, diced

2 tablespoons dulse flakes

2 leeks, tops removed, halved and cleaned, then sliced into half-moons

2 carrots, peeled and halved, then sliced into half-moons

2 parsnips, peeled and halved, then sliced into half-moons

2 medium-size all-purpose potatoes, like Yukon Gold, cubed

1 cup dry white wine

3 sprigs thyme

2 bay leaves

2 cups heavy cream

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 pound firm white fish fillets, like cod, tautog or sea bass, cut into fingers

½ pound sea scallops, sliced into coins if very large

¼ cup chopped parsley

Directions at cooking.nytimes.com

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