Seasoning the Apples
The color of the applesauce will vary according to the apples—Cortlands are great for adding color, as they turn pink over time—and whether or not you choose to peel them. Since the peels add beautiful flavor and color, I keep them on. Plus, they can be blended into oblivion with a top-notch immersion blender—more on that in a bit.

After coring and chopping the apples, I combine them in an enameled Dutch oven (I used the five-and-a-half-quart Staub cocotte) and toss them with lightly toasted sugar, which adds a super-mellow sweetness, with just a hint of caramel.
I season the apples with a generous pinch of salt, plus a splash of good-quality apple cider vinegar. (Check out the recommendations in Michael Harlan Turkell's guide to different vinegar varieties; his advice on how to round out your vinegar collection has made a huge difference in my cooking.)