In 2018, Food & Wine named this recipe one of our 40 best: Scholar of Chinese culture and cookbook author Barbara Tropp introduced F&W readers to the rich variety of China’s gastronomic regions, including that of the Hakka of southeast China. This is the most famous of Hakka dishes, a whole chicken that is baked in hot salt and emerges exceedingly juicy and not at all salty. Tropp explained that Hakka cooks have one hand in the north and one in the south; the northern hand reaches for garlic, ginger, and an extra shot of rice wine, while the southern hand opts for light-colored sauces and favors steaming over stir-frying. This chicken, while subtle, is served with bold dipping sauces, including a northern-style one made with plenty of fresh ginger. The quality of the bird is what makes or breaks this dish—seek out the best you can find. (Rose-scented rose dew liqueur, mei kuei lu chiew, is available in Chinese liquor stores, but the dish can be made without it.)