Soubise

cooking.nytimes.com

“No one who cooks, cooks alone. Even at her most solitary, a cook in the kitchen is surrounded by generations of cooks past, the advice and menus of cooks present, the wisdom of cookbook writers.” ― Laurie Colwin

Suzanne Goin, the chef and owner of a number of Los Angeles restaurants, published a recipe for this surprisingly light concoction of onions, rice, cream and Gruyere in her invaluable 2005 cookbook, "Sunday Suppers at Lucques." Years later, Mark Bittman and I served it as part of a feast menu we cooked up for the Sunday Times Magazine. It is a marvelous accompaniment to roast chicken.

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

14 cups Spanish onions, 2 cups diced and 12 cups thinly sliced, about 3 pounds in total

2 tablespoons thyme leaves

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

½ cup short-grained risotto rice, like Arborio

½ cup grated Gruyère cheese

⅔ cup heavy cream

Chopped parsley to finish

Directions at cooking.nytimes.com

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