Rich and Creamy Saffron Arancini with Mozzarella

1 (1-pound) loaf crusty Italian bread, crusts removed and bread cut into 1-inch cubes, or 2 cups panko bread crumbs, finely ground in a food processor

3 ¾ cups homemade chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium chicken broth, divided (see note)

2 packets (½ ounce) unflavored gelatin (only if using store-bought chicken broth or homemade broth that remains watery when chilled; see note)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, finely diced (about 1 cup)

2 cups short-grain Asian rice (see note)

1 cup dry white wine

2 pinches saffron, divided

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, divided

¼ cup milk

2 large eggs, beaten

1 pound low-moisture mozzarella, diced

Vegetable, canola, or other neutral oil, for frying

Directions at seriouseats.com

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