Split Pea Soup

cooking.nytimes.com

“No one who cooks, cooks alone. Even at her most solitary, a cook in the kitchen is surrounded by generations of cooks past, the advice and menus of cooks present, the wisdom of cookbook writers.” ― Laurie Colwin

This customizable recipe for classic split pea soup allows you to make it vegetarian or not with equally delicious results. Meat eaters can get that classic smoky flavor by adding bacon or ham hock, while vegetarians can reach for the smoked paprika. Half the split peas are added part way through cooking, which adds texture to each cozy, hearty spoonful.

6 slices bacon or 1 (1-pound) smoked ham hock, or 1 teaspoon smoked paprika

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

1 medium onion, diced (about 1 ½ cups)

2 medium leeks, white and pale green parts rinsed and thinly sliced (about 1 ¾ cups)

4 garlic cloves, minced

Kosher salt and black pepper

2 medium carrots, scrubbed and diced (about 1 ½ cups)

1 pound dried split green peas

2 fresh thyme sprigs

8 to 12 cups chicken stock or water

Lemon wedges, for serving (optional)

Directions at cooking.nytimes.com

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