This traditional Swiss fondue – the sort you might have encountered in an Alpine ski lodge circa 1972 – calls for an equal amount of Gruyère cheese, for its depth of flavor, and Emmenthaler, for its supple texture; a shot of kirsch, for its cherry aroma and alcoholic oomph; and a little garlic, for bite. It takes all of 15 minutes, and will emerge as magnificently creamy, smooth and velvety as custard, but with a funky, deep flavor that dazzlingly enriches anything you dunk in the pot: bread cubes, apple slices, clementine sections, nuggets of salami, pretzels, tofu. It is even marvelous spooned onto a romaine lettuce salad in place of dressing.