Chef Louis P. DeGouy (pronounced de-gooey) is one of my favorites from the 1940s. He wrote thousands and thousands of recipes, and honestly, almost every one of them is intriguing. His father studied under the great Escoffier and cooked for Emperor Franz Josef of Austria, while Louis cooked for grand hotels across Europe and for magnates in the states. He would later become one of the founders of Gourmet Magazine.

One of the best descriptions of his style is from the dust jacket of his Gold Cookbook – which has become one of my immediate go-to tomes when I’m in need of inspiration: “He writes with infectious enthusiasm for his subject, salting the book with anecdotes and amusing tales on the origin and the history of philosophy and poetry about the timeless art of cooking and eating.”

This recipe.....