Three years ago, Alessandro “Alex” Pisi took an online class with David Wondrich, where he first heard about the Kiss the Boys Goodbye, a drink dating to the World War II era that was originally published in Esquire’s Handbook for Hosts (1949). Pisi brought the spec from the class to The Wells in D.C., where he’s the lead bartender. Pisi loves the split base of Cognac and sloe gin, along with the smooth and frothy one-two punch of the simple syrup and egg white. “It’s like laying on a bed with silk sheets, but on top you have a goose-feather duvet.”