Frijoles refritos are a satiny purée of well-fried beans that are cooked with fat and their liquid. In Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisines, they’re usually made with pinto or black beans and lard, but they don’t have to be. This recipe uses canned white beans because their extra-starchy liquid expedites cooking time, and ample olive oil and browned onions guarantee deeply flavored beans. In many recipes for refried beans, the liquid is added gradually, but this all-at-once method from “Mi Cocina” by Rick Martínez (Clarkson Potter, 2022) results in softer beans. Serve with everything from greens to pork chops, or a simple fried egg dressed with sizzled red-pepper flakes and vinegar to cut the richness. Ever the pantry meal, the beans and eggs offer many avenues for improvisation.