when capers are not just gently sautéed but aggressively fried, they’re even better. On my list of “Foods Very Good Fried,” capers rank up there, along with green tomatoes, mozzarella, olives, tofu, pizza dough, and choux pastry (which, when fried, becomes a French cruller!). Frying causes capers to open, like flowers blooming in slow motion (and the Dominique Ansel marshmallows they’ve inspired). The insides retain some moisture, but the exteriors dry out, turning brown and crisp. Now, they’re not just a salty contrast, but a salty, crunchy contrast—a logical crown atop SALADS, polenta, brothy beans, charred, roasted cauliflower, yogurt dip, tomato toast, and, of course, creamy chowder.

Then: caper-infused oil. For Christian’s soup, he uses that flavorful oil as the base for his sautéed aromatics. Use it as the base of a salad dressing or drizzle it over smashed potatoes or a big plate of sliced tomatoes. HAVENT AF YET