PASTA - Mapo Tofu Cascatelli - Dan Pashman

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2 tablespoons kosher salt

One 16-ounce package silken tofu

2 teaspoons Sichuan peppercorns (see note)

3 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil

8 ounces ground pork (or 80/20 ground beef or other ground meat)

3 tablespoons doubanjiang (see note)

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger (or 1 tablespoon tubed ginger)

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 ½ teaspoons sugar

1 ½ tablespoons cornstarch

1 pound cascatelli pasta (or quattrotini, vesuvio, or rigatoni)

3 scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated

subheading: DOUBANJIANG NOTE (from The Woks of Life):

La doubanjiang, or spicy bean sauce (là dòubàn jiàng, 辣豆瓣酱, sometimes spelled “tobanjiang”), is a paste made from fermented soybeans, broad beans, and chilies. You may also see it referred to as, “spicy bean paste,” “spicy broad bean paste,” or “broad bean chili sauce.”

The cuisine of Sichuan province, where spicy flavors dominate, makes ample use of this sauce. It is bright red or reddish-brown in color and has a relatively chunky texture (it’s not 100% smooth, like some bean sauces).

The flavor is savory (filled with umami from the fermentation process), spicy, and salty. Píxiàn dòubàn (郫縣豆瓣) is a particularly well-known type of spicy bean sauce, named after the town of Pixian in Sichuan province.

Note that you may see other products labeled “doubanjiang” that are actually sweet bean pastes. You can tell the difference easily, as the sweet/non-spicy version is a dark brown color, rather than red.

To make absolutely sure you’re getting the spicy version, look at the Chinese characters on the bottle. If you see just the characters, “豆板醤” (doubanjiang), you may be looking at a non-spicy bottle. However, if you see the character “辣” (la, meaning “spicy”), you have the spicy Sichuan version.

HOW IS DOUBANJIANG USED?

Spicy bean sauce is seriously tasty, and it’s the foundation of many great Chinese dishes (Mapo Tofu, anyone?). It is the king of Chinese sauces in Sichuan cooking and can be eaten as a condiment, or used as a seasoning or sauce base in cooking.

Often, that deep red color you see in Sichuan dishes comes from frying doubanjiang in oil. Once the sauce hits the oil, it immediately begins to turn red!

Note that doubanjiang is quite salty, so you’ll have to keep that in mind when seasoning the dish and adding other salty ingredients, like soy sauce.

In addition to Mapo Tofu, classic Sichuan dishes that use spicy bean sauce include Twice Cooked Pork and Spicy Numbing Dry Pot (Mala Xiangguo).

BUYING & STORING

Look for the Chinese characters, 辣豆瓣酱 or “la douban jiang.” You may also see it labeled with some combination of the words, “broad bean paste with chili.”

subheading: As always, it’s best to look at the Chinese characters on the label, as English translations can vary widely on ingredients imported from China. You’ll find it in plastic packets:

Jars of doubanjiang on store shelf, thewoksoflife.com

When looking for this particular sauce, avoid brands that are more recognizable in America, like Lee Kum Kee (They make this Lee Kum Kee Chili Bean Sauce- Toban Djan). Spicy bean sauce is not their specialty or forte (they make Cantonese type sauces and ingredients primarily).

Pixian spicy doubanjiang, thewoksoflife.com

You may see prices differ depending on the fermentation time. The longer the fermentation, the more expensive it can be. A 3-year fermented la doubanjiang will have more depth of flavor than one that has been fermented for 3 to 6 months.

The Mala Market is a great resource for authentic, premium Sichuan (and other Chinese) ingredients. They offer a Pixian Doubanjiang sourced and packaged for them in Sichuan, as well as a super premium 3-year aged Pixian Doubanjiang.

Refrigerate spicy bean sauce after opening. If you purchased it in a resealable jar, it’s easy to store. If you purchased it in a plastic packet, transfer any leftover sauce from the packet to a clean jar using clean utensils. Always use clean utensils when handling/measuring out the sauce for recipes. This will extend its shelf life and prevent mold from forming.

It can last in a sealed container in the refrigerator for months, as long as you always use clean utensils to minimize the potential for external contamination. In general, it’s best to use the sauce by the date on the packaging.

SUBSTITUTIONS FOR SPICY BEAN SAUCE

If you can’t find spicy bean sauce, or you’re looking for a substitution in a pinch with ingredients you may already have, you can mix chili oil or chili paste with regular bean paste to make a spicy version.

Note: Ingredients may have been altered from the original.

Directions at kcrw.com

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