Servings: 6

Small pinch saffron threads (optional) Small pinch saffron threads (optional)
Pinch granulated sugar (optional) Pinch granulated sugar (optional)
1 whole (4- to 5-pound) chicken, trimmed of excess fat 1 whole (4- to 5-pound) chicken, trimmed of excess fat
Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, chopped 2 large garlic cloves, chopped
1½ teaspoons ground turmeric 1½ teaspoons ground turmeric
1½ cups white basmati rice, rinsed and drained 1½ cups white basmati rice, rinsed and drained
2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons lemon juice
Green herbs, such as parsley or cilantro, as garnish (optional) Green herbs, such as parsley or cilantro, as garnish (optional)

Heat oven to 375 degrees. If using the saffron, bring 2 tablespoons of water to a boil and let stand for 2 minutes to allow the temperature to drop slightly as you grind the saffron. Using a mortar and pestle, grind the saffron with the sugar to a fine powder (you should have a scant ¼ teaspoon), then add the hot water, gently stir, cover and let steep until ready to use. This is the saffron water.
Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and season it generously all over (inside the cavity as well) with 5 to 7 teaspoons of salt, depending on the weight of your bird, and about 2 teaspoons pepper. If your chicken is smaller, adjust seasoning accordingly. (This can be done up to 24 hours in advance and the chicken kept in the refrigerator, uncovered. Take the chicken out of the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking.)
In a large (6-quart) Dutch oven (or similar oven-safe pot), heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, 7 to 9 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low, sprinkle the onion with a little salt, add the garlic and cook until softened, 1 to 2 minutes. Add ½ teaspoon of turmeric and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Turn the heat off and transfer the onion mixture to a small bowl. Don’t wash the pot.
Sprinkle the remaining 1 teaspoon of turmeric all over the chicken. In the same pot, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil over medium-high, and carefully place the chicken breast side down in the pot. Cook the chicken on the stovetop until the breast side is golden, about 5 minutes. If the heat is too strong, reduce to medium. You’re not completely browning the skin, just getting some color on it. Very carefully, with the help of tongs and a wooden spoon, or using your hands, turn the chicken over and cook the back side until golden, another 5 minutes.
Scatter the onion mixture around the chicken, avoiding the top of the chicken, and pour 2½ cups water around the sides of the pot. (Do not pour the water over the chicken.) Bring to a quick boil, cover and place in the oven for 50 minutes.
Carefully remove the pot from the oven, and using a spoon, add the rice evenly to the liquid around the side of the pot. If any grains end up on top of the chicken or tucked into wings, gently scoot them into the liquid, otherwise they won’t cook properly. Drizzle the lemon juice and saffron water (if using) over the chicken, cover and place back in the oven for 30 minutes, until the chicken and rice are cooked through. Remove from the oven and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes before serving. Garnish with herbs, if using.
It’s best to carve the chicken right in the pot and serve along with the rice. But you can also gently lift the chicken out and place it on a board and carve.