Bagara Baingan (Creamy Spiced Eggplant)

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¼ cup coconut oil, ghee or olive oil

4 Indian (baby) eggplants (about 4 ounces each), slit vertically in half, leaving the stems intact (for other eggplant options, see Tip)

2 whole dried red chiles (such as dundicut or bird’s eye)

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 teaspoons white sesame seeds (optional)

½ teaspoon ginger paste or freshly grated ginger (from about one ¼-inch piece)

½ teaspoon garlic paste or freshly grated garlic (from about 2 cloves)

1 small red onion, chopped

1½ teaspoons Kashmiri or other mild red chile powder

½ teaspoon garam masala

¼ teaspoon turmeric powder

1½ teaspoons fine sea salt or kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

1 tablespoon peanut butter

1½ teaspoons tamarind paste (optional, but highly recommended)

½ cup full-fat Greek, Indian or cashew yogurt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Rice or roti, for serving

Directions at cooking.nytimes.com

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