"I named these chicken meatballs 'Uncle T's Meatballs,' after my Uncle T, who took me fishing when I was young. But the Uncle T here is universal, a tribute to every Italian-American uncle.

The staff first tasted the meatballs when we started to develop the recipe for Streetbird, my second Harlem restaurant, and they were a favorite right out of the gate. They're tender, with an extra-crisp exterior, and served with a rich, thick ragu (meat sauce) with a spoonful of ricotta and a shower of lemon zest.

Serve with toasted sourdough or country bread for sopping up the sauce so everyone can be a member of the clean-plate club.

Make-ahead tip: The sauce can be made one day ahead. Add the zest and salt after you reheat the sauce."